Free Vehicle Bill of Sale Template – 2026

A vehicle bill of sale is the written record of a private car sale: who sold what to whom, for how much, and on what date. It is the document that proves the transaction happened. In most private sales it is not what transfers ownership — the signed title does that — but without it neither party has proof of the price, the odometer reading, or the condition the car was in when it changed hands.

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What is a Vehicle Bill of Sale?

A vehicle bill of sale is the receipt for a private car sale. It identifies the buyer and seller, describes the vehicle by VIN, records the price and the odometer reading, and states the condition the car was sold in. Most state DMVs accept it as supporting evidence for a title transfer, and several require it outright.

This page does two things: it builds the document for you, free, in your browser, and it explains what the DMV will actually do with it. Most people will fill in the form and go. If you are selling a car worth more than a few thousand dollars, read the rest — the mistakes below are the expensive ones.

Bill of Sale vs. Certificate of Title

This is the distinction that causes the most trouble in private sales, so it is worth being blunt about it.

• Certificate of title: The legal proof of ownership. Signing it over is what makes the buyer the owner. Issued by the state.
• Bill of sale: The proof that a sale happened — parties, price, date, odometer, condition. Created by you.
• The trap: A bill of sale with no signed title behind it does not make anyone an owner. If the seller cannot produce a clean title, stop.

When You Need One

• Any private-party car sale — the buyer will usually be asked for it at the DMV counter
• Selling below book value — several states calculate tax from the sale price and want documentation
• Gifting a vehicle — most states treat gifts differently for tax and still want the transfer documented
• Selling “as-is” — the written condition statement is the seller’s protection
• Trailers, motorcycles, boats — same logic, different identification number
• Any sale where you want the date on record — the date is when liability shifts

Key Components of a Vehicle Bill of Sale

A generic bill of sale asks for a description of “the item”. A vehicle version needs specifics, because the DMV matches them against the title:

• Buyer and seller — full legal names and addresses, as they appear on their identification
• Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) — copied from the title, character by character
• Year, make, model — and body style and colour
• Odometer reading — the exact figure at the moment of sale
• Odometer status — actual mileage, exceeds mechanical limits, or not actual mileage
• Sale price — in numbers and words, or the word “gift” where no money changes hands
• Date of sale — the date liability shifts from seller to buyer
• Condition statement — almost always “as-is” in a private sale
• Known defects — a documented fault is a fault the buyer accepted
• Signatures of both parties — plus a notary block where the state requires one

Odometer Disclosure

Federal law requires a written odometer disclosure when ownership of a vehicle is transferred, and it is a federal offence to state a mileage figure you know to be false. Older vehicles are exempt, but the age threshold for that exemption has changed in recent years — do not rely on the rule you remember from a previous sale. Confirm the current federal requirement with the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, and your state’s version with your DMV, before you fill in the form.

Two practical points. Record the reading you actually see, not a rounded number. And if the odometer is broken, has been replaced, or has rolled over, say so on the form — the disclosure boxes exist precisely for that, and using them is what protects you.

States That Require Notarization (verified July 2026)

Last verified: July 2026 against state statutes and regulatory trackers. Laws change — before relying on any row below, confirm it with the official state source. How we source and update this data is described in our Editorial Policy.

In most states a bill of sale is valid with the signatures of the two parties alone. A minority require notarization for private vehicle sales, or require it in specific situations:

State	Notarization	Detail
Louisiana	Required	A notarized bill of sale is needed to complete a private-party vehicle title transfer.
Montana	Required	Both buyer and seller signatures must be notarized.
Nebraska	Required	A notary or public official must witness both parties signing.
West Virginia	Required	Notarization is required for certain private vehicle transactions.
Maryland	Sometimes	Required when the sale price is materially below book value, to document the true price for excise tax.
New Hampshire	Sometimes	Required in specific title situations — check with the DMV before the sale.
North Dakota	Sometimes	Certain transfers call for notarized documents.
Ohio	Sometimes	The title assignment itself must be notarized; the bill of sale supports it.

If your state is not listed, signatures are normally enough. Notarizing anyway costs a few dollars and removes an argument later — worth considering on a high-value car. See bill of sale requirements by state.

“As-Is” and What the Seller Is Still Liable For

Private sales are almost always “as-is”: the buyer accepts the vehicle in its current condition and the seller gives no warranty about how long it will keep running. The as-is clause in this template says that in plain terms, and both parties sign it.

What as-is does not cover is misrepresentation. It protects you from a buyer who is unhappy that the clutch failed a month later. It does not protect you if you said the car had never been in an accident when you knew it had, rolled back the odometer, or concealed a salvage or flood title. Those are fraud, and an as-is clause does not cure them. The safe rule for a seller: describe known problems on the bill of sale itself.

How to Fill Out a Vehicle Bill of Sale Step-by-Step

1. Get the title out first — every vehicle detail should be copied from it, not from memory.
2. Enter both parties — full legal names and addresses matching their identification.
3. Copy the VIN — then check it a second time against the dashboard plate.
4. Describe the vehicle — year, make, model, body style, colour.
5. Read the odometer — record the exact number showing at the time of sale.
6. Tick the odometer status — actual, exceeds limits, or not actual.
7. State the price — numbers and words, or “gift”.
8. Date it — the true date of the handover.
9. List known defects — be specific; vagueness helps nobody.
10. Both parties sign — and notarize if your state is in the table above.
11. Make two copies — one each, both signed.

What To Do After the Sale

Most disputes in private car sales come from what happens — or does not happen — in the few days after the money changes hands.

Seller

1. Sign the title over — in the seller section, exactly as your name appears on the front.
2. File a release of liability with your DMV, immediately. This is the step people skip, and it is the one that stops the buyer’s parking tickets arriving in your name.
3. Remove your licence plates — unless your state transfers them with the vehicle.
4. Cancel your insurance — but only after the title is signed over and the release is filed.
5. Keep your signed copy — your evidence of date, price and condition.

Buyer

1. Check the title before you pay — the seller’s name must match their identification, with no lienholder listed, or a signed lien release.
2. Verify the VIN — title against dashboard against door jamb.
3. Insure it before you drive it away.
4. Register and title it in your name within your state’s deadline. These are short in many states and late fees are common.
5. Keep the bill of sale — the DMV will usually want it, and your tax office may too.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Copying the VIN wrong — the single most common reason a transfer is rejected at the counter
• Treating the bill of sale as the title — no signed title, no ownership
• Understating the price to save tax — several states compare against book value and assess on the higher figure anyway, and a false statement is a bigger problem than the tax
• Not filing the release of liability — until it is filed, the vehicle is still associated with the seller
• Leaving the condition blank — a fault written down is a fault accepted; one left out is an argument
• Rounding the odometer — record what the dial actually shows
• Only making one copy — both parties sign, both parties keep one
• Handing over cash before signing — the bill of sale is the receipt

Create Your Free Vehicle Bill of Sale

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Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need a bill of sale if I already have the title?

Not always legally, but you want one. The title shows ownership changed; it does not show the price, the date, the odometer reading, or the condition. Some states require a bill of sale for registration, and many tax offices ask for it.

Does a vehicle bill of sale have to be notarized?

In most states, no. Louisiana, Montana, Nebraska and West Virginia require it for private vehicle sales, and Maryland, New Hampshire, North Dakota and Ohio require it in specific situations. See the table above and confirm with your own DMV.

Can I sell a car without a title?

In most cases you should not try. A bill of sale alone will not let the buyer register the vehicle. If the title is lost, apply for a duplicate from your DMV before the sale.

What if the car is a gift?

Still use a bill of sale, and write “gift” instead of a price. Most states have separate tax treatment for gifted vehicles, often between family members, and the DMV wants the transfer documented either way.

Who keeps the original?

Both parties should sign two copies and each keep one. If only one original exists, the buyer normally needs it for registration, so the seller should keep a clear scan.

Does “as-is” mean the buyer has no recourse at all?

No. As-is covers wear, age and faults the buyer could have found. It does not cover fraud — a rolled-back odometer, a concealed salvage title, or an accident history the seller denied. Those remain actionable regardless of what the form says.

How soon must the buyer register the vehicle?

Deadlines are set by each state and are often short — commonly a matter of days or a few weeks from the date of sale. Check yours with your DMV, because late registration usually carries a penalty.

What is a release of liability and do I need one?

It is a notice filed with your DMV telling the state you no longer own the vehicle. Sellers should file it the same day. Without it, tickets and tolls the buyer incurs can still come to you.

Is a handwritten bill of sale valid?

Generally yes, if it contains the required information and both parties sign. A typed form is safer because it is legible and harder to dispute, and some DMVs prefer their own version — check before you rely on a handwritten note.

Do I need a bill of sale for a trailer or motorcycle?

Yes, and this template works for both. Substitute the VIN for the trailer or motorcycle identification number and record the same details.

Related Templates

People selling or buying a vehicle privately also frequently need:

Compiled and edited by Daniel Mercer, founder and editor of LegalTemplateVault. Daniel does not hold a law license. The notarization table is compiled from state statutes and regulatory trackers and was last verified in July 2026; the rest of this page is general guidance and should be confirmed with your own state’s DMV. See our Editorial Policy for how we source and review every page.

Disclaimer: This template is for informational purposes only and does not constitute legal advice. Vehicle transfer rules vary by state. If the vehicle has an unreleased lien, a salvage or rebuilt title, or is part of an estate or divorce settlement, consult your DMV and a licensed attorney in your state.